The journey to Clifftop, West Virginia, feels like stepping into a time capsule. As the truck wound its way through the serpentine roads, memories of my childhood in the 1970s flooded back; these are the roads I learned how to drive on and gave me my first driver’s license. The landscape is timeless, a mosaic of rolling hills, dense forests, and the occasional clapboard house standing sentinel. The scent of pine mixed with the summer's warmth, and I felt the familiar thrill of returning to my roots. My father’s ancestral home is about 35-40 miles due north of here on Crites Mountain near Little Birch.
Arriving at the site of the annual Appalachian String Band Festival at Camp Washington Carver, I was greeted by a vibrant tapestry of tents, scattered like wildflowers throughout the wooded glades. Each tent has its own story, some adorned with colorful flags, others modest and utilitarian, one had two skeletons dressed in fall clothing holding makeshift instruments, but all sharing a common purpose: to celebrate the rich heritage of Appalachian music and culture. The air was alive with the joyous sounds of fiddles, banjos, guitars, and dulcimers, harmonizing with the nocturnal insects that buzzed and chirped in the background. It was a symphony that transcended time, connecting generations through a shared love of music.
As dusk settled, the sky transformed into a canvas of stars, each one twinkling like a distant ember. The campgrounds were illuminated by the warm glow of solar lights (no fires are allowed here - West Virginia governor Jim Justice declared a statewide drought today), where small groups gathered, their laughter and chatter blending with the music. It was a magical scene, reminiscent of the star-filled nights of my youth, where the only entertainment was the company of friends and family along with the stories we spun.
At the heart of this gathering stands the iconic Camp Washington Carver lodge. Built in 1942, this historic structure was the first 4-H camp for African-American youth in the United States. Its construction was and is a monumental achievement, a testament to the resilience and dedication of the community. The lodge, made of locally sourced timber and stone, exude a rustic charm. Its large, inviting porch wrapped around the building, offering a perfect vantage point to take in the surrounding beauty.
Inside, the lodge is a warm and welcoming space, with wooden beams crisscrossing the high ceilings and a large stone fireplace dominating one wall. The floorboards creak with every step, telling tales of the countless feet that had walked them over the decades. Walls adorned with photographs and memorabilia paid homage to the camp's rich history and the many lives it had touched.
The lodge is not just a building; it is a symbol of the strength and unity of the community. Built during a time of segregation, it provided a space where African-American children could learn, grow, and connect with their heritage. Today, it stands as a reminder of the progress made and the importance of preserving cultural traditions.
As the night deepened, I joined a group of musicians on the lodge's porch. The music flowed effortlessly, each tune a thread in the rich tapestry of Appalachian folk traditions. I felt a deep connection to this place and these people, bound together by the shared rhythms of life. The stars above seemed to dance to the music, a celestial audience to our humble performance.
In that moment, under the canopy of stars, surrounded by the timeless music of the mountains, I feel a profound sense of belonging. The winding roads, the bustling tents, the lodge with its storied past—all of it converged into a singular experience of joy and nostalgia. The festival is not just an event; it is a homecoming for musicians and people far and wide. A celebration of roots and traditions that have withstood the test of time.
It’s close to midnight as I write tonight, and the sounds of the musical jams continue. Eventually, they will lull me into a deep, peaceful rest, cradled by the mountains that I have always loved.
Here's some more information on the camp:
https://wvtourism.com/company/camp-washington-carver/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camp_Washington-Carver_Complex
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